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Dougal's Pet Corner
The place for your pet stories and pictures, let me have them |
Rabbits
A life worth living? |
For as long as rabbits have been
domesticated, humans have thought it quite acceptable to confine them to a hutch at the
bottom of the garden. Fortunately the modern approach to understanding the need of
domestic pets is to look at the way they lived naturally pre-domestication and allow them
to obey their instincts while keeping them safe from harm. For example, canine studies
have shown that if a dog is given its correct standing in the pack it can be taught to
behave acceptably in our human society. Similarly a rabbit's basic instinctive behaviour,
though less complex, needs to be understood if we are to improve the quality of its life.
The first step in meeting a pet rabbit's physical and psychological needs is to choose the
right accommodation. However, a freestanding rabbit hutch alone is, by modern standards, a
very basic living-space for rabbits and it is essential that rabbits living in them also
get adequate exercise outside. |
| A more common approach to rabbit keeping is to have an
all-in-one hutch and run built, or to fence in areas of garden, not forgetting that
rabbits like to dig. |
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| It is therefore advisable to bury the perimeter fencing
(or netting). One of the chief benefits of this style of housing, is that as rabbits are
generally more active at night, they can safely exercise while you are not about. The size
of the run may vary according to the size of its intended inhabitants, but a good
guideline is in its title, as a rabbit needs space to actually run. It will not serve its
purpose if the perimeters are reached in two small bunny hops. Another often more spacious
and cheaper option is to purchase a second hand shed or aviary. Ladders and shelving can
be installed to provide even more floor space and there is also room inside for rabbit
owners to spend time socialising with their pets. Unless rabbits have adequate exercise
and sunlight they would often suffer from osteoporosis or brittle-bone disease. These
problems could be worsened by a diet containing insufficient calcium and the result could
lead to serious bone fractures. NOTICE that all of these options have access to a
sheltered draught-proof area when needed by your rabbit. Studies have shown that rabbits
that are able to regularly stretch the muscles in their backs and legs live longer and
happier lives. Whatever accommodation you choose, bear in mind that it has to be sturdy
enough to keep your rabbit in, with wire netting floors in runs to prevent the rabbit from
tunnelling out and to keep out predators. Urban foxes are adept at breaking into flimsy
hutches. Our thanks to Claws'n'Paws for letting us take the photo. More next issue. |
As promoter of the recent street collection in Sheringham,
I would like to thank all who donated money to the RSPCA. We achieved the excellent sum of
£464.21 of which only £5 went to expenses. Each RSPCA Branch is a separate charity,
responsible for its own funding, and all money donated goes to help local animals. Thank
you again.
W.J.Pinnington
Mount Farm, Edgefield |
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| Join the RSPCB |
It always amuses me when people get the 'P' of RSPCA mixed
up with the 'P' of RSPB and start to talk about the Royal Society for the Prevention of
Birds! An organisation I would like to start is the RSPCB, the Royal Society for the
Prevention of Cruelty to Binoculars.
It does amaze me to see how some people abuse their binoculars. Even some experienced
birders, who should have a keen interest in looking after their optics, may be seen
cleaning their 'bins' with a handkerchief straight out of a pocket. Binoculars should
never be cleaned with a cloth that is used for other purposes; a single grain of sand can
do serious damage. Lenses and their coatings, which reduce reflections and stray light,
are very easily scratched, and extreme care should be taken to avoid dragging grit over
them when cleaning. Best practice is as follows:
1. Only clean lenses when any 'dirt' is actually affecting what you see.
2. When you do need to clean them, hold them so that they face the ground so that gravity
can help. Use a lens brush/blower brush, to flick off any dirt, paying particular
attention to the edges where grit could be trapped.
3. Breathe gently on the lens and wipe it lightly with an optical cloth in circular motion
from the centre towards the edge. The cloth should only be used for this purpose and
stored in a sealed, grip-proof bag.
4. Remove stubborn marxs with a drop of lens cleaning fluid on a cotton bud, lightly
'rolled' over the offending mark.
Observe these basic steps and your binocular lenses should be good for many years'
service.
Cley-Spy
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If cats and dogs didn't have fur,
would we still stroke them? |
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